Le Jardin aux Etoiles
Riad between Agadir and Taroudant, in southern Morocco
Holiday rental with a resident of Swiss nationality
Essaouira Jewish city under the wind
It is a city apart. Essaouira is the last Jewish city in Morocco. It is also a tourist city swept by the trade winds. Advantage: sea sports such as windsurfing are very popular there. Disadvantage: people whose health does not agree with these often very strong currents do not stay there long. Still, Essaouira has an immense charm. It is accessed by three hours and a half from the Jardin aux Etoiles.
During a first visit, one is both surprised and amazed by this ancient Portuguese city. Today listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was long named Mogador, name derived from the Phoenician word Migdol which means "little fortress".
The fort that remains and commands the entrance to the port evokes the establishment of the Portuguese. An architecture reminiscent of Belém Tower, on the banks of the Tagus. The beach to the west is as attractive as that of Agadir, less populated.
Touristy, but with a soul
And the city has a signature, all in blue and white. Touristic certainly, but with a soul. Orson Welles and Jimmy Hendrix (as well as the hippie movement in general) were seduced by Essaouira. We fall into the same "trap" with delight. Galleries of art, rugs and artisan objects abound.
Small picture rails fitted out in the west door present, for example, figurative and ethereal works. A gouache by the Moroccan artist named Amina and representing a city - and a country - under construction comes from this gallery. It is exposed facing the staircase that goes up from the kitchen to our Marrakech suite.
An exceptional example of a fortified city
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the medina of Essaouira is an exceptional fortified city from the middle of the 18th century, surrounded by a Vauban-style wall. Originally Portuguese, it was built under the Alaouite Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdallah (1757-1790), distant ancestor of King Mohammed VI, according to the principles of European military architecture of the time, in perfect association with the precepts of Arab-Muslim architecture and town planning.
Long known as the Port of Timbuktu, Essaouira became one of the centerpieces of Atlantic trade between Africa and Europe at the end of the 18th century and during the 19th century. It played the role of a leading international trading port linking Morocco and sub-Saharan Africa to Europe and the rest of the world. It is now largely supplanted by Agadir.
City of culture
The city is a multicultural center, illustrated by the coexistence of various ethnic groups: Amazigh (Berber), Arab, African and European. Muslims, Christians and Jews, who have their last significant community in Morocco, cohabit there peacefully. Every summer, Essaouira organizes the very famous Gnaoua and world music festival, as well as other musical events like Atlantic Andalusia of Essaouira and the Musical Spring of the Alizés, this under the aegis of the Association Essaouira Mogador.
The latter was founded by André Azoulay, a great Moroccan Jewish figure, adviser to the late King Hassan II and his son Mohammed VI, who powerfully acted for the enhancement of artistic creation and the heritage of Essaouira.
Magnificent riads
The medina still retains its integrity and original cachet today. Its state of preservation continues to improve. Magnificent riads have been furnished for the most part with care. They give pride of place to the use of local cut stone, called manjour.
With the Star of David in the centre, above the arch.
Essaouira stone gives them a special cachet. This is the Emotion guest house.
Des artistes, des arrtisans.
Une succession d'échoppes.
Une manifestation d'envergure, haute en couleurs. Les Gnaoua témoignent de l'esclavage des Noirs par les Arabes.
Très authentique.
Essaouira, ville culturelle par excellence.
Et les bateaux des pêcheurs.
Un nouveau sport qui a la cote.
Cela arrive parfois, et c'est poétique. Photo Gil Serpereau
C'est ici que nous avons déniché la gouache d'Amina qu'on trouve dans notre riad (photo Irene Bener).
Photo Irene Bener.