Le Jardin aux Etoiles
Riad between Agadir and Taroudant, in southern Morocco
Holiday rental with a resident of Swiss nationality
 South sideCurves and gradients. |  Tizi n'testA breathtaking drive from the Souss valley. |  At the topA basic café. |  From the summit of the Tizi n'TestThe majestic Atlas. |  The road aheadBerber adobe village below. |
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From Souss to Marrakech by the tizi n'Test
This is "the" excursion! To go to the South of Morocco and not cross the Tizi n'Test is to give up an unforgettable must. It's like missing out on a tagine or not tasting Friday couscous... This magnificent and epic route at the foot of Toubkal can be done either from Marrakesh to get to the Jardin aux Etoiles, or from our riad in the direction of the Ocher City.
Dhen you have to drive nearly six hours away, it is advisable to reserve a day, which will be populated with innumerable discoveries for those who know how to see and appreciate...
This crossing is exciting in all seasons, except in winter when it is better to avoid the ice, which has already caused too many accidents. Some speak of a daunting journey and many Moroccans almost assimilate it to the kingdom of the Devil, so that they... have never taken it! The route certainly includes many bends. But it is still secure, in particular by low walls.
Magnificent, especially in winter, when the highest peaks are still covered in snow. Tinergouet (left) rises to just over 3,500 metres.
View of the Anti-Atlas (photo Martine Hervé).
Riad Hida is located in the southern part of the village of Ouled Berhil.
A garden over a hundred years old.
At nightfall, they come close to the building to jump from it to their nests in the trees opposite.
In the garden of Riad Hida.
From your riad to Ouled Berhil
If you start from the Souss valley - the direction of the journey that offers the strongest sensations - you have to go up to Ouled Berhil. In this locality, if you have the time, a stopover at Riad Hida, with old-fashioned charm and founded in the 19th century by the pasha of the same name.
You will admire the Arab-Andalusian garden, whose vegation was installed under the Protectorate, so that you can see all the benefit of the passage of time. You will also come face to face with the peacocks of the house, which have multiplied... quite naturally.
Landscape of the upper Souss Valley.
Lost in the foothills of the Tizi n'Test.
Contrasts on the way up the Tizi n'Test.
This North African giant (4,167 metres) lies immediately to the east of the Tizi n'Test. It is partially visible from the road (photo Anderegg).
The Tinmel mosque was largely destroyed in the earthquake of 8 September 2023.
A legendary venue created by Virgin boss Richard Branson.
Dizzying climb of the tizi n'Test, then slow descent to Marrakech
The tizi n'Test climbs quite quickly first among the argan trees, then on the hillside. The pines frequently line the road, in the places most exposed to the heat. The road winds near the Toubkal massif, which can be seen very partially, but from different angles and on countless occasions. Like a companion watching over your journey... Watch out for the road! Turns can be tight and crossings in some difficult places. You have to be careful.
The valleys that stretch throughout the Tizi n'Test are far from being depopulated. On the contrary, we can see, often below, Amazigh villages that have retained all their authenticity. The adobe dwellings almost blend into nature. Well-fed streams abound.
Unfortunately, it was here that the earthquake of 8 September 2023 caused appalling damage. The epicentre was located in Ighil, 3 hours 30 minutes by car from the Tizi n'Test, a 150 km drive.
At nearly 2,100 meters above sea level
The summit of the pass is at 2,092 meters. We enjoy a spectacular view, south side, from the belvedere of the emblematic café which dominates the vertiginous slope.
The road descends more slowly on the Marrakech side and is much longer than on the Souss side. Along the way, we come across some decent hostels. However, the sympathetic name should not to the smoking boar. The place deserves to be refreshed at the very least... Further on, the sheepfold with its Berber-Provençal style, it seems worth stopping by. At the next inn-restaurant, Marigha Olive Grove, on the right, the lunch menu will allow you to eat pleasantly by the pool, at a reasonable price. But leave our riad early enough!
Mosque of Tinmel and Asni
One of the main sights on the route was the Tinmel mosque, which dates back to the 11th century and is located around a hundred kilometres before Marrakech. Almost completely restored before the earthquake of 8 September 2023, it was completely destroyed in the quake. As one of Morocco's most important religious sites, there is no doubt that it will be rebuilt. Spiritual home of the founder of the Almohad dynasty, Ibn Tumart, it was considered a holy place for centuries. Looted, she saw her role gradually fade away. Unlike other mosques in Morocco, that of Tinmel can be visited by non-Muslim visitors, as long as it does not host a religious ceremony.
We soon arrive at Asni, still located at an altitude of 1,150m. This beautiful Berber village is located in the center of a magnificent circus. It is from here that expeditions leave to climb Toubkal, via Imlil. Virgin founder Richard Branson built there Kasbah Tamadot, a sophisticated and luxury hotel that is the Moroccan retreat of its creator.
We still crossed the gorges of Moulay Brahim. Turning our backs on Toubkal, we then leave the High Atlas massif, to reach Marrakesh, at the end of a busy day, rich in visual emotions.