Legendary Marrakech

Jardin Majorelle An extraordinary exotic garden and Yves Saint-Laurent's final resting place.	The souks of Marrakech Fragrances, colours and an atmosphere like no other.	Place Jamaa El Fna A gathering place par excellence. In the background, the Koutoubia mosque.	Sunset over the Koutoubia The magic of Morocco and the 1001 Nights...

Marrakech, legendary ocher city

By the highway, it is necessary to count about 3 hours to reach Marrakech Menara airport from the Jardin aux Etoiles. Count the same time to reach the medina of the legendary ocher city. You can also take the schoolchildren's path, passing by the tizi n'Test, a pass which culminates at 2,100 meters, passes at the foot of the Toubkal massif and offers an epic and unforgettable route. Below, in summary, 30 strengths and weaknesses of Marrakech.

Arnakech In Marrakech, scams are always around the corner ! It's part of the DNA of the Ochre City. People cheat you for a living, and tourists are gullible prey. The Place Jamâa el Fna and its shops of all kinds is the centre, but not the only receptacle. The list goes on and on: overpriced taxi fares, very recent carpets and objects that look deceptively old, hotels with gleaming, overly disappointing advertising. But there are plenty of honest people in Marrakech too!	City walls 19 km long, they completely enclose the medina, although they are not always fully visible. Built of adobe, like those in Taroudant, they comprise 22 gates and 200 towers. They are around 6 to 8 metres high. However, unlike those of Taroudant, the walls of Marrakech are not visible everywhere.	Climate surprises Marrakech, far from the ocean and set against the northern slopes of the Atlas mountains, has a continental climate that can throw up some not-always-pleasant surprises. At the height of summer, temperatures can soar to 45 degrees. Winter is cold and sometimes rainy. The water that falls from the sky is a calamity for traffic in the narrow streets of the medina. It carries sand, earth and dirt. Between summer and winter, however, it's a very good time! The weather in Agadir is much milder.
The medina of 400 riads Previously regarded as a 'dirty' district, Marrakech's medina gradually regained its prestige from the 50s and 60s onwards, with the rehabilitation by foreigners, mainly French, of the countless riads hidden in its alleyways. These traditional houses built in a square around a garden have become one of the main tourist attractions of the Ochre City. Today, there are some 400 of them.	Sex tourism Despite the efforts of the authorities, sex tourism continues to be (very much) present in Marrakech, as it is in Agadir. Prostitution is rife among both women and men. Cases of paedophile crime regularly make the headlines. The easy, quick buck remains all the more attractive as poverty continues to be the lot of the majority of Moroccans.	The souks The souks of the medina are a must for tourists, crowded with foreigners eager for the scents, colours and unique atmosphere. Warned of the pitfalls that await visitors, they stop less and less to buy goods. This is due to the insistence of certain Marrakchis and the reputation of Arnakech. The most skilful merchants have realised that they gain nothing by being too interventionist. All that's left is to brandish the "eye candy" argument!
The Koutoubia A jewel of Hispano-Moorish art, the emblematic mosque of the holy city of Marrakech dates back to the 12th century. The shale minaret is magnificently crafted. But for non-Muslims, the Koutoubia is a source of frustration. Only followers of the Koran are allowed inside. This rule applies throughout Morocco. It dates back to the French Protectorate and stems from Lyauthey's desire to leave a space for the exclusive use of the natives.	Menara Gardens Located right next to the airport, the Menara Gardens were laid out around 1147 by the Caliph Abd al-Mumin, who seized Marrakech and established the Almohad reign. Built under the Saadian dynasty in the 16th century, the pavilion has stood in the majestic basin filled with water from the Atlas Mountains for 700 years. This romantic setting has always attracted lovers. Admission is free if the gardens are not being restored; admission to the pavilion is subject to a charge.	Restaurants Marrakech is full of good, and even very good, restaurants. Our selection in the medina: Dar Zellij (photo), Foundouk, Bacha Coffee and Un déjeuner à Marrakech. Or when the architecture of old buildings restored with taste and respect for the past combines with the magic of an atmosphere like no other.
Jemaa el Fna place Located in the medina, of which it is the beating heart, the Jemaa el Fna place attracts tourists from all over the world, sometimes disappointed, sometimes enchanted by the performing arts that take place there. Here you can listen to Gnaoua musicians, drink water from the water carriers, be frightened by snakes that have been rendered harmless, and eat all sorts of culinary specialities, especially in the evening. Watch out for pickpockets!	Jardin Majorelle A magnificent exotic garden to the north of the medina, a must-see. It was created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle, whose brush celebrated the kasbahs of southern Morocco. The Anemiter kasbah has been recreated, in a much larger version, at the entrance to our Tiznit suite. The Jardin Majorelle was bought by the late Pierre Bergé. His own ashes and those of his companion Yves Saint-Laurent were laid to rest there.	Yves Saint-Laurent Museum Opened in October 2017 near the Jardin Majorelle, this futuristic-looking museum showcases the haute couture collections imagined in the designer's villa, as well as temporary exhibitions. The Le Studio café serves traditional Moroccan and French dishes with a twist, using top-quality produce. Open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, except Wednesdays.
Jardin secret Opened in 2016 and designed in the great tradition of Arab-Andalusian gardens, this welcome stopover is magical. Visitors exhausted by the density of the sites in Marrakech will find the tranquillity and shade they are looking for. Private individuals have had the merit of carrying out complex work on the site of one of the oldest riads in the Ochre City. The result is stunning: an earthly reflection of paradise.	National Weaving and Carpet Museum Housed in Dar Si Saïd, an imposing 19th-century palace that was completely refurbished in 2018, it features over 400 carpets from every region of Morocco. A hymn to one of Morocco's strongest traditions. And a wonderful traditional architecture, magnified by a successful restoration. Open every day except Tuesday. Popular admission prices.	Museum of Culinary Art In the medina, an 18th-century palace offers 34 cooking stations and a Moroccan lounge for a friendly introduction to Moroccan cuisine. A shop and a restaurant on the terrace invite you to extend the interactive experience. A great success !
El Badi Palace Built in the 16th century by a Saadian sultan, the Palais El Badi, whose name means "the incomparable", was of a beauty that became legendary. A century later, the palace was stripped of its ornaments to decorate a new one in Fez. This explains why it is so bare. Only the high walls remain. But the majesty of the place remains. You have the impression of being in a temple like Luxor... Access from the Place des Ferblantiers. Modern art exhibition.	Medersa Ben Youssef and Museum Dating back to 1570, the Medersa Ben Youssef is a former school where the sciences were taught, particularly religious ones. This jewel of Arab-Andalusian architecture is admired for the finesse of its interior decoration: cedar wood forming sumptuous domes, marble, sculpted plaster panels, and zellij of countless colours and shapes. Located next door and part of the same tour, the Musée de Marrakech is a palace dating from the late 19th century.	Bahia Palace Considered an architectural masterpiece, the Bahia Palace dates back to 1880. At the time, it was the sumptuous residence of one of the sultan's grand viziers. This series of courtyards, gardens, salons, outbuildings and annexes is remarkable for its structure and ornamentation. A visit should be made with a real guide, one who is officially recognised if possible.
Saadian tombs Part of the El-Mansour mosque, this is a place that can be visited (very) quickly without the benefit of a guide's explanations. Three groups of tombs dating from the 16th century house the mortal remains of around sixty members of the ruling Saadian family. The tombs are made of marble. They are separated by a small garden. Decorated cedar wood domes and finely worked stucco. Other Saadian tombs can be found above Agadir.	The Jewish quarter, the Mellah Every Moroccan town had a quarter reserved for Jews, known as the Mellah. The Mellah in the medina of Marrakech has been preserved almost as it was. The vast majority of Israelites left Morocco at independence in 1956 to join the State of Israel. A few still remain in the Mellah of Marrakech. We would be delighted to show you the small synagogue that remains.	Dar el Bacha The former palace of the famous Thami El Glaoui, Dar el Bacha is now known as the Musée des Confluences. Designed to showcase both Moroccan and international cultural heritage, it is supported by the National Museums Foundation. A budget of 12 million dirhams has been made available. On display are writing instruments, tablets and various objects relating to science and Islamic knowledge. It is also within its walls that the excellent Bacha Coffee is hidden.
Youssef Ibn Tachfin Cenotaph Contrary to what you may be told, this building, located to the south of the Koutoubia, on rue Sidi Mimoum, is not the mausoleum of the founder of the city of Marrakech. It is his cenotaph, recently renovated, in other words a monument to his glory, although it does not contain his body. It is presumed that the remains of Youssef Ibn Tachfin are hidden somewhere in the medina. But it has never been clearly identified.	Water Museum Opened in May 2017, the Aman Museum of Water Civilisation features a scenography using the most modern techniques. The Museum of Moroccan Water Civilisation is not just a tourist museum, but also a tool for development, education and raising awareness of the need to preserve our heritage and the environment.	Menara Airport This is often the first building that tourists see in Marrakech. The airport, with its highly successful futuristic lines, is the architectural antithesis of the medina and its 400 riads. Marrakech airport could be better organised. The waiting time on arrival can be more than half an hour. But that's for our own safety. A point that the Moroccan authorities monitor with the utmost vigilance... and with success.
The storks The ochre city is one of the favourite haunts of storks, both those that migrate here from Europe in autumn and those, known as African storks, that fly back and forth to the Sahel. These elegant wading birds nest on the heights, as they do on the walls of the El Badi Palace (our photo), and contribute to the very special atmosphere of Marrakech. A silly legend claims that eating stork meat cures diabetes. Fortunately, it seems to be on the wane.	Railway station Marrakech is linked to the ONCF rail network. The new station built there is magnificent : on the outside, it combines modernity with Moroccan tradition. A fine achievement, particularly admirable at night... ONCF lines stop at Marrakech. To get to Agadir, you need to take the coach. The same applies to Essaouira. A TGV line is planned from Casablanca to Marrakech, then from Marrakech to Agadir. Music for the future...	Gueliz Located to the west of the medina, this district dates back to the Protectorate. The authorities of the time imposed the colour ochre on building facades, hence the nickname "Ochre City", which is still used today. Gueliz was extended after independence in 1956, and again in the 1990s and early 21st century. Built around Avenue Mohamed V, Gueliz is home to a large number of western brands, restaurants, banks and apartment blocks.
Golf courses of Marrakech Marrakech has no fewer than 11 golf courses, including the 27-hole Amelkis (our photo). The snowy Atlas Mountains provide a sumptuous backdrop. The golfing season here is longer than in Europe, but shorter and less mild than in Agadir, which has five courses. The rain does little to keep golfers company in Agadir, and statistically more so in Marrakech.	Fantasia Chez Ali A rather flamboyant dinner show outside Marrakech, based solely on Arabic folklore. The Chems Ayour dinner-show, close to our riad, combines Arab and Berber folklore. We highly recommend it.	Palm grove Located to the east of the Ochre City, the palm grove still contains thousands of date palms, many of them diseased. What's more, the palm grove has been eaten up by luxury hotels and residences, popular with celebrities, golf courses and swimming pools. You can tour it by horse-drawn carriage (a long way around) or by taxi. But there's not much left of the once thriving palm grove. The opposite is true of Tiout, near Taroudant, just over an hour from the Jardin aux Etoiles.