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Le Jardin aux Etoiles
Riad between Agadir and Taroudant, in southern Morocco
Holiday rental with a resident of Swiss nationality
 Pink rocksThe sublime setting of Tafraout. |  Valley of the Ammeln tribeJust before Tafraout coming from Tizourgane |  Above TafraoutPeaks topping 2000 metres. Jebel Lekst rises to 2,359 m. |  The lion of TafraoutSculpted by nature. |  Village of Oumesnat near TafraoutTypical traditional adobe houses. |  TafraoutRoches bleues, installation by Belgian artist Jean Verame. |
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 Tizourgane fortress, in TiouitBeautifully restored. |  TizourganeFrom the terrace of the Tizourgane Kasbah restaurant. |
Magical Tafraout by Tizourgane
One of the most extraordinary excursions from your rental riad is the one that goes due south to the mythical Berber town of Tafraout, passing through the fortified village of Tizourgane, where the lunch break is essential, after an hour and a half of travel. This trip, which must be given a full day, and this from early morning, can also include, before Tizourgane, a visit to the fortified granary of Imchguiguiln or that of Ikounka.
Without the various stops, allow a good five hours to complete this enchanting circuit. We recommend doing it in two days, spending the night in Tafraout, to take the time to admire in all serenity the painted rocks and the gorges of Aït Mansour.
Stone walls to the millimetre
Behind it, the Kasbah Tizourgane building, which has the unusual feature of being a guest house in a communal attic.
A consummate art of stone
To be admired in passing.
Extraordinary spiced tagine
Order this egg dish, very finely spiced by the owner, who not only runs the restaurant but also the guest house of the same name.
Kasbah Tizourgane
Simple, authentic and excellent cuisine.
Dining room at Kasbah Tizourgane
A typical Berber atmosphere in the Anti-Atlas.
Map of Tizourgane
A maze of restored houses and, at the western end, Kasbah Tizourgane.
Successful rehabilitation of a rocky outcrop
From a distance, the Anti-Atlas appears to be a continuous chain. Like its big brother the Atlas, it is actually made up of valleys, depressions, cliffs and hills. From the big village of Ait Baha, the road that leads to Tizourgane runs alongside spectacular granite cirques. The wadi which dug the bottom of the valley is sometimes visible, sometimes invisible, as the slope is important.
Jewel of Moroccan rural tourism
Just before Tiouit suddenly appears the silhouette of the rocky outcrop on which was built a fortress that dates back to the 13th century. A small car park has been set up halfway up. Tizourgane has been perfectly restored, revealing an art of ancestral stone. The restoration operation knew how to perfectly respect the authenticity of the fortress. Moroccan rural tourism holds there one of its jewels. The pdf files that can be downloaded below explain the recent history of Tizourgane.
Delicious cuisine
But, for now, stomachs are empty! Located at the western end of the fortress, the excellent table of Tizourgane Kasbah awaits us. Everything is delicious here. The owner is none other than the wife of Jamal, the man behind the rebirth of the place. She will offer you typical dishes. Don't miss his tagine with eggs and spices!
This meal tasted, let's not waste time. Let's take the road again towards Tafraout!
To Tizourgane in just over an hour and a half from the Jardin aux Etoiles
Anchor 6
Oumesnat (Omssnat)
A hamlet of typical buildings.
Oumesnat toujours
Qualité de l'architecture berbère.
Roches roses
Palmiers-dattiers et rochers forment une symphonie de couleurs et de formes très expressive
Palms and stones
Typical Tafraout atmosphere.
Beginning of the Ameln Valley
The enchantment begins here.
Napoleon's hat
The mythical rock of Tafraout. But does it really resemble the emperor's headdress?
Aguerd Oudad
At the foot of Napoleon's hat.
Aguerd Oudad
The palace district of Tafraout and Aziz Akhannouch's home village.
Magnificent Berber house
Still in Aguerd Oudad.
Terraced crops
Climatic conditions are tough. That's why we need to develop pragmatic solutions.
The blue rocks
The installation by Belgian artist Jean Verame has been given a new lease of life!
Immensities
Nature triumphant.
Tafraout, unforgettable magic
As soon as the fortress of Tizourgane is left, the landscape changes. We quickly arrive in the Ameln Valley (also written Ammeln), a spectacular natural theater dominated by the djebal Lekst from the top of its 2,359 meters. It is from here that a large part of the Berbers named Chleuhs who populate Agadir and Souss come from.
Some, known for their sense of commerce, have become grocers in Paris or wealthy industrialists in Casblanca. The great droughts have prompted them to leave their emblematic village, which they keep close to their hearts. Astute Berber observers affirm that the richest among them are like Picsou, the miser par excellence created by Disney. They would be totally insensitive to the fate of the less fortunate Imazighen and would have only one idea in mind: to please Arab Moroccans and foreigners.
From the lion to the misnamed Napoleon's hat
The dwellings of the Vallée des Ameln take on very dark red colors, others are built in floors and in adobe, giving a marked character to the village of Oumesnat, also spelled Omssnat. The landscape then widens and reaches the town of Tafraout. An impressive and very recognizable lion appears on a rock wall. Leaving the center of the city, which in itself has nothing extraordinary, the pink granite rocks give a magical, almost unreal dimension to the site, which reaches its climax when it is bathed in the rays of the setting sun. Rejoice your eyes!
The guides talk a lot about the rock called "Napoleon's Hat". But don't be fooled: this rare gift of nature has nothing to do with Imperial headgear. This name is not only misleading, but alsoscandalous. South of Tafraout, the gorges of Ait Mansour are another source of admiration.
Tafraout is also a paradise for lovers of climb. Both south and north of the town, they will find their happiness,in the form of two superb routes.
A quality riad
Unfortunately, hotels and restaurants in Tafraout do not enjoy a reputation that lives up to the natural setting. However, the opening of the riad El Malara changes the situation. Finally a quality riad in Tafraout! You can eat and sleep there. Reservation essential.
The way back passes through the sublime and wild Kerdous pass, where the stopover is welcome, without, here again, the hotel of the same name is at the same level as the landscape. From Tifnit, the express road turns out to be quick to your rental riad. In total, you will have spent a good 5 hours on the road during this superb day.
To spend the night there or simply eat there : the guest house El Malara in Tafraout
Anchor 3
Superbe tour recouverte de pierres
Dans le plus pur style de l'Anti-Atlas
Terrasse
Parasols très sympas
Chambre avec lit double
Les murs sont recouverts de tadelakt, comme au Jardin aux Etoiles
Cuisine légère
Brochette de poulet, petits légumes et citron confit
Le salon d'hiver
Avec cheminée
Chaleureux
Dans le style berbère
Vue depuis le riad
Panorama splendide
Gazelle de Cuvier
On voit encore de ces animaux à proximité du riad El Malara, alors qu'un effort de repeuplement des gazelles et des antilopes est en cours au Parc animalier de Souss Massa.
Located 5 km from Tafraout, Tiznit side,Riad El Malara is highly visible, standing not far from the main road to Tiznit from the center of the Berber city, north of the track of the rocks painted by Jean Verame. The exterior architecture is very successful and announces the quality of the place. The walls are covered with rammed earth and stones, in the latter case in a manner typical of the ancestral style of the Anti-Atlas.
To eat and sleep there
You can eat there only, or board there. We recommend that our guests who wish to deepen their discovery of Tafraout to sleep there at least one night. In a first step, the riad, which opened in 2015, has six beds.
Riad El Malara was created by a very active couple of French retirees, Bernadette and Jean Sibieude. Both to eat there and to spend the night there, it is advisable to book with them.
+212 6 58 18 18 36 or +33 6 62 99 25 21
info@elmalara.com
Anchor 7
A circuit by Tizourgane and Tafraout which takes place in more than 6 hours. We recommend doing it in two days, spending the night in El Malara and adding the next day the painted rocks and the gorges of Aït Mansour.
Tafraout on the Star Garden blog
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