Le Jardin aux Etoiles
Riad between Agadir and Taroudant, in southern Morocco
Holiday rental with a resident of Swiss nationality
Fortified granaries in the nearby Anti-Atlas : a wonderful heritage
The Anti-Atlas near your rental riad is extraordinarily rich in fortified granaries, known as agadirs or igoudar in Berber. These are exceptional curiosities of a heritage on borrowed time, absent from the programme of tour operators. There are almost 500 of them, most of which are being destroyed or have already been wiped off the map. We suggest you visit the Agadir of Inoumar, just 40 minutes from our riad. Inoumar is the largest and one of the most spectacular igoudar in Morocco, alongside the troglodyte agadir of Ifri, near Taliouine, and the vertiginous agadirs of Amtoudi. Discovering Inoumar can be part of a full-day excursion, which will take you to Tafraout, by Tizourgane.
La plupart des photos de l'agadir d'Inoumar sont de Corinne Preteur et de Michel Terrier.
The Agadir of Inoumar has the reputation of being one of the largest in Morocco. It is also the closest to the Jardin aux Etoiles (50 minutes if you go through Gfiffat and Tassila). You can get there by going to the almost abandoned village of Talkerdoust. The last part of the course is a track, easy to take. The building is located some 200 meters south of the village. It dominates the assif (oued) Aouerga.
Built in the 18th century, this magnificent Agadir comprises some 600 cells which occupy no less than three aisles on three floors each. A few are still in use. Inoumar is in relatively good condition. Part of the perimeter wall and a few bays of huts, however, collapsed.
The guard is called Mohamed. He will open the door for you and offer you tea. A gesture representing 50 to 100 dh is obviously expected.
Elle vous accueille à Imchguiguiln malgré la fermeture de l'agadir, qu'on espère temporaire, pour un tajine.
Construit pour résister aux attaques des tribus ennemies et des pilleurs.
Banal au premier abord, mais...
C'est bon, vous y êtes, plus que quelques mètres !
Les murs de l'agadir d'Imchguiguiln ont exclusivement été construits en pierre. Le pisé, trop friable, n'y a pas sa place, ou n'a pas survécu.
De l'allure !
The Agadir of Imchguiguiln can be reached, heading due south, in less than an hour from the Jardin aux Etoiles. See details on Google Maps below. After crossing a magnificent landscape of argan trees, you can see a large sign on the left, about three kilometers before the town of Aït Baha. Other geographical indications can be found on the Internet. Don't be fooled, they are fake.
Access is easy by car. The last section is a concrete road, then tarred for a little over 500 meters, before arriving at the village of Imchguiguiln.
Contemporary of the Crusades
L'agadir est une banque des temps anciens
L'agadir est doté de marches en pierre destinées à accéder aux cases supérieures
Peut-être trouverez-vous quelque objet ancien dans le trésor de Mbataka Ben Homer, aujourd'hui disparu.
A réserver à l'avance.
Cette tortue a été peinte en rouge, pour la protéger de l'inadvertance des visiteurs
Le gardien les conservait précieusement sur lui.
Just recently restored, the agadir of Imchguiguiln would extend its oldest roots until the year 1244. It would therefore be contemporary with the Crusades. As we laid our first stone, the Cathars capitulated at Montsegur.
You will be kindly welcomed by the caretaker, Mbataka Ben Homer, and his wife Saadia Machaitou, both of Berber origin and adorable kindness. This agadir is distinguished by its high quality stone construction, which is noticeable from the exterior wall and is gloriously confirmed inside the vast corridor formed by two impressive rows of huts which were used to secure crops and goods. It is the heart of Agadir. These boxes, which can be compared to the safes of today's banks, are no longer used.
A thousand interesting details
Elles servaient à conserver l'huile d'olive ou l'huile d'argan
L'agadir était occupée par l'armée française en vue d'une bataille qui n'eut jamais lieu. Cette cible de forme humaine porte les traces des exercices de tir.
Un extraordinaire travail de juxtaposition précise, qui a défié les siècles.
La sécurité au centre du concept de l'agadir.
Les chats étaient les bienvenus, afin de chasser les souris. Une part du grain leur était réservée pour les récompenser de leur présence bénéfique.
Une technique de construction éprouvée.
During the visit, the two guards will provide you with a thousand interesting details, which we are not going to deflower here. However, the images above give an idea. In addition, Saadia is ready to prepare a tagine for you, which you will taste in her house. Then count two or three hours more! Reservation essential: 06 62 81 27 28 (her) or 06 18 43 81 62 (him). Negotiate the price!
Tajine or not, remember to give the guards 50 or 100 dirhams (5 or 10 €). It's their livelihood! And, we cannot say it enough, life is not easy for the Moroccan people.
Photos of Inoumar: Michel Terrier
The agadir of Ikounka is in the village of Aïr Doubark. It is very close to that of Imchguiguiln and is located a little further than the latter. It is well indicated on the road that leads to Aït Baha (on the left when arriving from the Souss plain).
His door is usually closed. You have to ask the inhabitants of the village who is the person who is able to open it. You will probably be quoted the local teacher, who may be asked to intervene, unless you come across a good day. We are in Morocco!